Day V Minus 7

Sailing trip ends a week from today.  Bob and I still like each other.

Do We Stay or Do We Go

Our plan A was to wait until slack at Woods Hole and then proceed to Red Brook harbor in Pocasset. Since we slept in late (0730), we had to wait until the afternoon slack at 1400-ish. That would mean hanging around in Tarpaulin Cove until after noon. Not such a bad thing but we wanted to get moving. So plan B emerged to visit Cuttyhunk Island.

On the way, we would pass through Quicks Hole to get back into Buzzards Bay.  Slack for Quicks Hole was around 1500, but unlike Woods, you don't need to wait for slack.

Remaining Neighbors at Tarpaulin Cove in the morning

Passing Tarpaulin Light one more time as we leave. Notice the cattle

Discovered an Anchorage to Wait for a Favorable Current
So you don't need to wait for slack in Quicks Hole, but capt Linda considered it foolish to attempt to pass through it at max opposing current - and that's right when we got there. Turns out there is a lovely anchorage right along the beach on Nashawena Island, so we took advantage of this.  Because of the current, the anchored boats were all facing away from the wind when we got there.  So we turned down-wind to anchor. 



We had a couple hours to kill, so we fished a bit (no, nothing) and took the dinghey to the beach to explore. The Elizabeth Islands really are something to see.  Read more here. We walked a few hundred feet from the beach to Quicks Hole Pond. While we were there, a very friendly local gentleman came along and told us quite a bit of info about the history and nature of the islands. We noticed lots of evidence of cattle around this and Nashom Island. Apparently, there were originally sheep on the islands but then Coyotes got introduced to the island and took care of that (and the rabbits). The Forbs Family trust wants to keep some sort of livestock on the islands so they are taxed as agricultural land, so now there are cows which coyotes will not mess with.
 

Bob gets the story of Nashawena Island, the Elizabeth Islands, why there is cattle on the islands, and why there are no more sheep or rabbits on the islands (and I forget what else) from this guy.

Charging the video camera with the cute solar gizmo that Linda's son got us for Christmas

Through the hole
We hauled the anchor and took off while there was still about 1.5 kts opposing current. No problem, we had a great broad reach and put up both sails.  We were cruising through the hole at about 3 kts over ground. Once we got out of the other end of the channel, we turned upwind a bit toward Cuttyhunk and were flying at over 6kt.

This little jaunt from Quicks Hole to Cuttyhunk was the best sailing of the whole trip (according to capt Bob)

Sailing into Cuttyhunk
We kept the sails up as long as possible while approaching Cuttyhunk harbor. Once we got in the pond, we found lots of empty town moorings. Last time we were here, they were all taken and we had to anchor way out on the edge of the pond. Capt Linda said to grab the mooring behind the blue-hulled sailboat. I looked at that sailboat and it was called "Eagle". Wow - this is Al's boat from our own Marina. What a small sailing world. We took the dinghy to shore but stopped by Al's boat to say hello.

The entrance to the channel into the pond

It's Al from our Marina!

Paying the harbormaster while he's tied up to Al's boat

The center of commerce in Cuttyhunk

Raw bar afloat
Cuttyhunk has a raw bar boat that makes the rounds in the pond and the outer harbor. You can hail them on 72.

Delivery

Finish with Yet Another Spectacular Sunset
Another chilly night. We tried to stay out in the cockpit but our blankets were not quite enough tonight.

Day 15: Adjusting Plans

Long Vacations
I think it's Saturday and I know it's August twenty something. Oh how wonderful it is to loose track.

Plan B
A cornerstone of sailing, of course, is flexibility and adaptability. It is important to plan (very good for Type A's like Linda) but equally important to adjust plans according to conditions or equipment issues. We spent quite a bit of time last night considering our various destination options examining the wind and current forecasts finally deciding on a 0730 departure westward (for Woods Hole or perhaps a longer sail to Cuttyhunk). However, we were awoken at 0400 to high winds and an alarmingly creaky forward cleat under much load due to 20+ kt winds and a single mooring line. Bob strapped on his forehead lamp and successfully secured another mooring line from the bow. Quite a feat in the dark and very windy early morning hours. (Photo below is from much later in the morning.)

Extra secure for the high winds

We normally would not be deterred by 20 kt winds but our original plans had us sailing westward in a contrary current. Given that the early morning actual wind was quite a bit higher than the forecast, we decided to be cautious and not risk being out in Vineyard Sound in winds perhaps approaching 30 kts against a 3+ kt current -- could make for very rough sailing and perhaps ill Captains. So we had a relaxing and functional morning at the mooring enjoying the bright sunshine in the partially sheltered harbor.

Westward view in the large and full harbor. Most boats were choosing to stay put due to the high winds.

Bob was getting nervous about his clean clothes reserves so he washed some shorts and underwear in the harbor and hung them out to dry in the sunshine and wind.

Also got Linda's rose pedals pumped out.

Tied up to a floating water dock to fill the water jugs, top off the water tanks, and swab the deck. Now it's time to depart.

Venturing out in to the Wind
We left Edgartown Harbor at 1330 and motored straight in to a brisk wind and moderate seas for an hour before being able to turn off and raise sails. We initially sailed under just a reefed main then let out just a bit of jib.

Both sails reefed riding a favorable current heading about 330 degrees T

Despite Buzz at Woods Hole confidently informing Linda earlier in the day that there would be a mooring available for us, our follow up phone call after departing Edgartown Harbor indicated that there would definitely not be availability. Bob put a call in to Menemsha (recommended by our Boston slip neighbor, Dan) but we were similarly informed "no way". Seems the blow was keeping everyone set tight.

Photos do not capture the rough seas. Mostly 3 foot waves parallel to the boat with some 5 and 6 footers. Rockin' and rollin'!

Green can off Vineyard Haven light house. Note the strong current pushing it to the right. We planned the trip to be traveling to the right also at this time. (right = invalid nautical nomenclature)

Mega sail boat not sailing. Huh?

Tonight's featured entree: Potato gnocchi with spicy sausage/roasted/grape tomatoes/sweet peppers, crostini topped with anchovies, and a glass of pinot noir. (The hand held VHF and can of horn are for dessert.)

Linda cooked but Bob did the dishes.

Good Night Moon
Winds died down for a calm evening at anchor in beautiful Tarpaulin Cove.

We hung out in the cockpit after the sun went down (and it got chilly), and enjoyed a spectacular night sky. The Milky Way is so clear out here with no city lights. As we were finally heading below to turn in for the evening, there was the Moon just rising over Vineyard sound.

Day 14: Hangin' in Edgartown

What's that sound?
I've been hearing this high-pitched melodic sound all morning.  Finally figured out that it was the ultra-thin fishing line on my rod resonating in the wind. It sounded sort of like a very high pitched organ. So I tried to record it with my iPhone app. Unfortunately, by then the harbor was getting busy and the "noise" part of the signal-to-noise ratio was everything from boat engines to airplanes.

Always the recording engineer

After a light breakfast, we took the dinghy to town and rented some bikes. Last time we were here, we rode all around the island and ended up in Vineyard Haven. This time, Linda decided we should go to Chappaquiddick Island via the ferry. The "Chappy" ferry consists of two barges that can hold three cars, plus pedestrians and bikes. They cross the 500 foot entrance to the harbor all day long. They both have to leave at the same time and pass each other in the middle (cuz there's only one dock for it on each side).

Boarded the Chappy

The captain

Departed.  Next stop: 500 feet across the harbor

Passing the "other" ferry

Once we got off the ferry, there is about a 3 mile bike ride to the eastern most beach.  Along the way, you pass the Mytoi Gardens - a Japanese inspired web of trails well worth exploring.

Mytoi gardens walkway

Large Snapping Turtle in one of the ponds

More scenes of Mytoi gardens

The Bridge
The name Chappaquiddick became infamous because of what happened at this bridge. There are no signs saying anything about what happened here. Linda the conspiracy theorist, thinks there is hush money involved.

The Bridge

On the other side of the bridge is a beautiful beach. We hung out there for a while and took in the view.

Beautiful dunes

Calm inner waters near Chappy Bridge

On to Oak Bluffs
We rode back to the ferry and got our return trip back to Edgartown.  From here, we rode the 7 or so miles up the coast to Oak Bluffs along a bike path.  O/B is the touristy part of the Vineyard. The harbor is lined with every kind of restaurant and shop (shoppe).  It was very windy today and we watched some small boats out in the sound getting bounced around pretty good. The kite surfers were loving it though.

Kites waiting to be surfed

Finally a REAL Lobster Roll (almost)
Captain Linda is very particular about lobster rolls. Apparently there is a right way and wrong way to make them and they are only made correctly in Connecticut (and some parts of Maine). The correct way is warm lobster meat tossed in butter on a toasted hot dog roll (like at Lenny and Joe's in Clinton near Hammonassett Beach in CT). The wrong way (the way everyone else makes them) is cold lobster salad with mayo. Every time we pass a place advertising Lobster Rolls, she inquires about how they are made (right or wrong; butter or may; warm or cold). She is usually disappointed and points out to the staff that there is a better version they should add to their menu. Today, she was surprised to find a choice of the two versions at Lobsterville in Oak Bluffs and got her wish (almost):

A correct type of lobster roll (almost....the bun is too big,the butter sparse and the lettuce is unnecessary, but pretty close).

We were hoping to meet up with our new sailing friends, Emily and Greg Constitution Marina who were due to arrive in Oak Bluffs today.  But their arrival time was later than we could accommodate with our rental bikes.  We'll see them back in Boston next week.

Gingerbread houses
This is the other thing that Oak Bluffs is famous for. There is a whole neighborhood of cute little brightly colored houses on narrow streets.  This started out as a tent community in the 1800's and grew to a small village of tightly packed, ornate little homes.

Dinner
The cycle back to Edgartown was much easier with the brisk and unconventional northerly wind mostly at our back.  We were planning on hitting one of the restaurants, but as we passed by a fresh seafood store, Linda convinced me that some Scallops would go just nice with the Lamb chops we got the other day in Falmouth.  But first, Capt Bob needed to go to town for the ice we forgot to get.

To town for supplies

Seared Bay Scallops, Peppercorn Encrusted Lamb Chops, Roasted Brussels Sprouts with Sporassado and Caramelized Onions (an entre fit for Scutra)

While Linda prepped the meal, Bob tried to catch a fish. And finally he actually did.

Finally a bit of fishing success!

The trick to catching was to play guitar at the same time as fishing.  Acoustic guitar attracts Porgy.

Bob:  The Fishin' Musician

And so ends another beautiful day on the Vineyard.