Friday, August 23, 2013

Day 14: Hangin' in Edgartown

What's that sound?
I've been hearing this high-pitched melodic sound all morning.  Finally figured out that it was the ultra-thin fishing line on my rod resonating in the wind. It sounded sort of like a very high pitched organ. So I tried to record it with my iPhone app. Unfortunately, by then the harbor was getting busy and the "noise" part of the signal-to-noise ratio was everything from boat engines to airplanes.

Always the recording engineer

After a light breakfast, we took the dinghy to town and rented some bikes. Last time we were here, we rode all around the island and ended up in Vineyard Haven. This time, Linda decided we should go to Chappaquiddick Island via the ferry. The "Chappy" ferry consists of two barges that can hold three cars, plus pedestrians and bikes. They cross the 500 foot entrance to the harbor all day long. They both have to leave at the same time and pass each other in the middle (cuz there's only one dock for it on each side).

Boarded the Chappy

The captain

Departed.  Next stop: 500 feet across the harbor

Passing the "other" ferry


Once we got off the ferry, there is about a 3 mile bike ride to the eastern most beach.  Along the way, you pass the Mytoi Gardens - a Japanese inspired web of trails well worth exploring.

Mytoi gardens walkway

Large Snapping Turtle in one of the ponds

More scenes of Mytoi gardens

The Bridge
The name Chappaquiddick became infamous because of what happened at this bridge. There are no signs saying anything about what happened here. Linda the conspiracy theorist, thinks there is hush money involved.

The Bridge

On the other side of the bridge is a beautiful beach. We hung out there for a while and took in the view.




Beautiful dunes

Calm inner waters near Chappy Bridge

On to Oak Bluffs
We rode back to the ferry and got our return trip back to Edgartown.  From here, we rode the 7 or so miles up the coast to Oak Bluffs along a bike path.  O/B is the touristy part of the Vineyard. The harbor is lined with every kind of restaurant and shop (shoppe).  It was very windy today and we watched some small boats out in the sound getting bounced around pretty good. The kite surfers were loving it though.


Kites waiting to be surfed
Finally a REAL Lobster Roll (almost)
Captain Linda is very particular about lobster rolls. Apparently there is a right way and wrong way to make them and they are only made correctly in Connecticut (and some parts of Maine). The correct way is warm lobster meat tossed in butter on a toasted hot dog roll (like at Lenny and Joe's in Clinton near Hammonassett Beach in CT). The wrong way (the way everyone else makes them) is cold lobster salad with mayo. Every time we pass a place advertising Lobster Rolls, she inquires about how they are made (right or wrong; butter or may; warm or cold). She is usually disappointed and points out to the staff that there is a better version they should add to their menu. Today, she was surprised to find a choice of the two versions at Lobsterville in Oak Bluffs and got her wish (almost):
A correct type of lobster roll (almost....the bun is too big,the butter sparse and the lettuce is unnecessary, but pretty close).
We were hoping to meet up with our new sailing friends, Emily and Greg Constitution Marina who were due to arrive in Oak Bluffs today.  But their arrival time was later than we could accommodate with our rental bikes.  We'll see them back in Boston next week.

Gingerbread houses
This is the other thing that Oak Bluffs is famous for. There is a whole neighborhood of cute little brightly colored houses on narrow streets.  This started out as a tent community in the 1800's and grew to a small village of tightly packed, ornate little homes.




Dinner
The cycle back to Edgartown was much easier with the brisk and unconventional northerly wind mostly at our back.  We were planning on hitting one of the restaurants, but as we passed by a fresh seafood store, Linda convinced me that some Scallops would go just nice with the Lamb chops we got the other day in Falmouth.  But first, Capt Bob needed to go to town for the ice we forgot to get.
To town for supplies

Seared Bay Scallops, Peppercorn Encrusted Lamb Chops, Roasted Brussels Sprouts with Sporassado and Caramelized Onions (an entre fit for Scutra)

While Linda prepped the meal, Bob tried to catch a fish. And finally he actually did.

Finally a bit of fishing success!
The trick to catching was to play guitar at the same time as fishing.  Acoustic guitar attracts Porgy.
Bob:  The Fishin' Musician

And so ends another beautiful day on the Vineyard.



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